| ART DÉCO JEWELRY |
| Jakob Bengel, Idar-Oberstein/Germany Christianne Weber |
| ISBN 3-89790-179-X |
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This is a luxurious and lovely book that comes to us
from Germany. The book is beautifully designed. Aspects of the book are
in both German and English, The top section is in German, and the bottom
section on each page is English, providing us with a wide audience for
readership.. The display and photographs of jewelry from this period of
time are exquisite. Cubism and the Art Deco period are well represented.
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| It was discovered that jewelry that was thought to be
French was really designed and manufactured at the watch-chain and
bijouterie (jewelry) factory founded by Jakpb Bengal at Idar-Oberstein,
Germany in 1873. This book represents the designs of those designers.
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| More than 250 pieces of jewelry made at Jakob Bengel
are highlighted and described. They represent a wide variety of tastes and
patterns of the over a period of time of 130 years of business, and
include pattern and design books from the years 1924 to 1939. |
| Of special interest to me is the section on the use of
new synthetics as substitutes for genuine metals and stones in jewelry
design. The first synthetics emerged by the mid 19th century, and by 1851
allowed for the mass production of jewelry and accessories made with
ebonite, a hardened rubber. The invention of celluloid, a thermoplastic,
in 1869 added another synthetic to jewelry making. Celluloid made
numerous color combinations and shape designs to expand and develop.
Celluloid transitions into Galalith in the early 20th century which began
to replace Celluloid, and allowed for a wider variety of colors and
shapes. Galalith resembles natural horn and tortoiseshell and was also
useful for buttons as well as jewelry. Many photos in the book use elegant
and clean line designs with Galalith. |
| Other interesting features of the book are the examples
of pattern books and designs. Those making jewelry in today’s market will
marvel at the designs and drawings. Consumer demands increased and
individual patterns were designed for each market to reflect the taste of
the country and prevailing passions of the public. |
| Many thanks to the publishers for sharing this with
us. I know that many current day jewelry designers will appreciate the
fine photographs and jewelry ideas. |
| Pat Sonnenstuhl, Webmaster ADSNW |
